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This page is about crocodile skin within fashion. For (animal), see crocodile.

Crocodile skin either refers to the skin of a live crocodile or a leather made from dead crocodile hide.

Crocodile Leather

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Main article: leather

Crocodile leather is the processed hide of one of 23 crocodile species in the world.[1]High levels of craftsmanship are required to process and tan the skin which is rare in comparison to other hides such as those of sheep or cow[2], resulting in its classification as an exotic leather which makes up less that 1% of the world's leather production.[3] As a result, the leather is considered a luxury item and is utilized by high fashion brands such as Hermes, Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) and Gucci,[4] who have the capabilities to work with such material. The rarity and expense of the leather is a consequence of the scarcity of dependable farms and tanning facilities as well as the limited availability of crocodiles and their relatively small size; it can take, according to Hermes, 3 skins to make 1 bag. [5]

Red Crocodile Kelly Bag

Applications and Uses

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Although used most prominently in the production of handbags and other luxury items such as shoes, belts and wallets, crocodile leather is also used in upholstery and furniture. The most utilized species of crocodile within industry are Freshwater, Saltwater, Nile and Caiman.[6] Not all these skins are valued the same; the Australian Saltwater Crocodile is reputed as the best in the world as well as being the largest crocodile species and consequently providing the largest hides, making it very popular in comparison to the smaller Caiman skins which are not of equal quality or value and are generally used as a cheaper option due to their ubiquity.[7] Freshwater Crocodile, particularly from New Guinea, is valuable within the fashion market as it possesses a durability which allows processors to skive it down to a thinness suitable for clothing whereas Nile crocodile, mostly available across Africa,[6] is notably durable, making it desirable for items such as footwear and belts[8].

Farming

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Main article: Crocodile farm

Within the crocodile farming industry, crocodiles are either farmed or wild-caught[2]. Farming in Northern and Western Australia involve ranching which includes captive breeding accompanied by wild harvesting. Eggs are collected and landowners sell the eggs to local farms to harvest.[9] This method is prohibited in Queensland which only allows captive breeding.[10]

A series of operations are carried out on the crocodile farm in rearing the animal, preparing it for slaughter and the removal and treatment of skin before it is sent elsewhere to be tanned and used in the manufacture of commercial goods.

  1. Ranching - this is the collection of wild eggs which is not carried out in all locations of crocodile farming.[7] Collection usually occurs in February and March.[11]
  2. Hatching - the eggs are incubated and protected to ensure the highest yield.[9]
  3. Growth - the crocodiles are grown to certain sizes dependent on what the skin will be used for. For example, most bags will require a 40 cm belly skin which will require a crocodile of generally 1.5 years old or 1.2 m long. The requirements vary depending on what is fashionable at the time, for example, if there is a trend for small handbags then a farm will reduce the growth stage and instigate slaughter earlier as smaller skins are required by the fashion industry. It is a case of supply and demand; if crocodile skin suits are "in fashion" then crocodile farmers will need to provide the fashion industry will larger skins suitable for such production.[12][9]
  4. Stunning - The crocodile is stunned with a rod and its eyes are covered to calm it.[13] Once the crocodiles have reached the desired size, they are sent to abattoirs where skins and meat are removed for sale.[10]
  5. Slaughter - Humane slaughter is carried out by the severing of the spinal chord.[10]
  6. Disinfection - According to food-safety guidelines the skin is disinfected.
  7. Chilling - Before skinning the carcass is left in a cold room bleed.[2] This often takes place over night.[10]
  8. Skinning - Skin is carefully removed.
  9. Meat Processing - meat is removed and packaged according to food safety requirements.
  10. Skin Processing - the processing of the removed skin involved short and long term preservation, grading and measurement and storage until dispatch.[12][10]

Crocodile skin for the fashion leather industry is the main farm income and as a result, it is important the skin is high quality to achieve the highest revenue possible. Preservation is key as quality of skin reduces substantially in warm conditions where the farms tend to be situated. To add value to skins, some farms include fleshing in the farming process, most likely at the stage of short term preservation. Fleshing is usually carried out by tanners and is the trimming, scraping and removal of remaining muscle tissue using sharp equipment and high power water jets. It is often considered risky for farms to complete the fleshing process as there is a risk the skin may be damaged and it costly, with 1 skin demanding labour costs of $12 not including operating or capital costs. Therefore, fleshing is usually carried out by tanners.[2]

Value, Quality and Measurements

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The skin is the most valuable part of a crocodile, followed by the meat and other body parts such as teeth.[12] The value of a crocodile skin is determined in 2 ways; firstly by its size and secondly by its grade. The width, which increases the value of the skin, is measured across the third raised scute and the grade is measured on a scale which assesses the level of damage to the skin, with the value decreasing by 25% per level.[2] Consequently, the value of a skin can drop dramatically if its quality is not maintained by careful handling. For first grade skin, the value per cm is $9 (USA), meaning that 40cm of skin demands $360.[2] However, for every imperfection, a skin's value significantly decreases and this is why crocodile farmers work hard to ensure captive crocodiles are exposed to as few threats to skin damage as possible. This includes, covering of sharp edges in enclosures[14] and laying down of plastic to ensure scutes are not eroded or scratched as crocodiles move on their bellies (which is the most desirable part of the skin due to the small scale structure) as well as separation of crocodiles as they reach certain levels of maturity and fights become more common. The crocodiles are put into smaller groups to prevent fights and spread of infections which could potentially lead to scarring and damage of skin which will effect the ultimate value of leather. [15][2]

Value is generally added to a skin by how much a fashion house desires it. Such fashion houses include Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurant and Hermes.[14] The premium skins are transported to countries where tanners treat the skins to make them ready for manufacture into commercial goods such as bags, shoes and accessories. This treatment can include fleshing, dyeing, glazing and polishing of the skin to achieve the aesthetic the designer requires. Top quality skins are generally transported to France, Italy and the United States of America where the most reputable tanneries are situated.[16] In Australia, which is both a producer and manufacturer of crocodile hide, boutique fashions are produced by businesses such as Di Croco which offer custom products to customers and also aim to utilize lesser skins and by-products to minimize waste. [12][17]

Quality can be improved up to the point of slaughter and from herein only maintained or reduced.[2] To maintain value, it is important a skin is preserved correctly as immediately after slaughter there is a loss of immune response and the skin is susceptible to microbial contamination in the form of scale slip, staining and discoloration[14] and biological damage such as bacterial or fungal infection.[2] In short term preservation, a 60% brine solution is used for up to 5 days. If a skin requires long term preservation, a commercial biocide is required which allows the skin to be kept for up to 4 months.[2][18]The specific quantities of brine solution have been derived from tests which demonstrated that extremely high salt contents resulted in skin shrinkage and subsequent deflation in value. The skins are kept in sealed individual bags to prevent exposure to external threats and simplify handling. Farmers and tanners have adopted methods of folding or rolling skins to prevent creases forming across the scales. Skins are not vacuum packed to prevent creases and folding damage.[2]

The rough textured scutes of crocodile hide present in the back cut.

There are 2 main cuts of crocodile skin:

  1. Back Cut - This is a more scaly cut with a rough texture and mostly used in trimmings.
  2. Belly Cut - This is a highly desirable cut due to its smooth texture and the close, small scale structure which makes it pliable and suitable for multiple items such as handbags and clothing.[3]

The largest width of the belly is measured to gauge the value of the hide.[6] When designers are purchasing crocodile leather, they must take into consideration the measurements are for the overall size of the hide and not a pattern width. As a result, it can take several skins to produce single items.[19]

Treatment after Farming and Production

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In the 1960s and 1970s the United States of America and Zimbabwe decided to develop management plans which supported the growth of crocodile populations in harvest.[16] Simultaneously, in Papua New Guinea similar management programs were being run and the success of these programs meant that it became economically and commercially viable to maintain the trading of crocodile skins if the programs were managed sustainably to prevent over hunting and depletion in numbers. The maintenance of such farms, however, relies on the skin-producing countries to export their products elsewhere for tanning and manufacture.[16]

The maintenance of the quality of skin is a very important aspect of the farming process as it ensures the highest quality of leather is produced. It is often impossible to tell if a skin has been preserved adequately until after tanning as there may be no signs of biological damage.[2] A damaged skin can effect the tanning and result in a dull, discolored or scuffed finish which ultimately devalues the leather.[20]

When making a handbag, the most desirable crocodile leather is that which is most flexible, this is one of the reasons why the Australian Saltwater Crocodile is one of the most sought after skins.[10] The bonier hides of Caiman crocodiles are more difficult to dye and to work with, making them a less popular option. For items such as bags, suits or trousers, large panels of skin are required.[3] With large areas of leather on display, it will be obvious if the leather is damaged in any way and this is why particular cautions are taken throughout the process to ensure high grade skins come out of the crocodile farming industry. For small bags, a hide of 30 to 34 cm is required whereas larger bags need skins of 40 to 50 cm.[19] Manufacturers are careful to utilize the maximum amount of hide as possible; scraps are used for straps, gussets and interior details. It is necessary for the designer to mark the skin with preparatory sewing lines using a rotatory tool to thin the line where the stitches will run. This reduces the risk of the needle hitting calcium deposits which may break the needle.[21][16]

It takes an average of 2 artisan days to make a crocodile skin handbag. This figure is dependent on the glazing technique used on the hide as certain glazes effect the pliability of the leather, making it stiffer and prone to cracking.[19] This kind of crocodile leather requires special treatment as a bag cannot be made in the traditional way where it is turned inside out, instead the manufacturers must employ skilled workers who can sew skin in an alternative fashion.[6]

Legalities

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The trading of valuable crocodile skin is legally complicated due to the importance of the maintenance of animal welfare and source of reliable farming. It is especially important as unregulated commercial hunting has resulted in drastic decline of crocodilian populations and in some cases the establishment of endangered species, leading to the governmental protection of many reptiles.[8] CITES is an international agreement between 164 countries to protect endangered species form extinction. It was established in 1973 and stands for "Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora".[16] Legally imported crocodile skin must come from reputable farms with CITES certification to prove legal possession. Any uncertificated skins are confiscated by customs and sale of an inherited (pre-CITES) or illegally imported skin is a criminal offence.[10]

The laws on crocodile trade are different around the world. In the United States of America, it is legal to import sustainably sourced crocodile leather as long as it complies with the restrictions imposed by CITES.[8] Crocodile leather trade for Freshwater Siamese Crocodile with Thailand, Vietnam or Cambodia are forbidden however, even if the skin is accompanied by a CITES certificate.[2] In certain cases, illegal trade occurs when buyers are unaware of the imposed restrictions and it is always very important that companies or businesses purchasing crocodile hide are conscious of its origins.[2][6]

Trade

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Exotic skins have been desirable in Europe since the 1800s which led to the expansion of trade and establishment of industry in the Caribbean, Mexico and Central America.[16] Since then, the demand for skins has increased to the extent that hunting and production spread to Africa, Asia and Australia, where the majority of crocodile skins are sustainably sourced today.[16]

In the Northern Territory, crocodile farms generate $107 million per year which is a crucial form of income for a community lacking viable industry.[20] Crocodile farming is valued as providing 264 jobs (2017) as well as acting as an inclusive mechanism for Indigenous rangers in remote communities and encouraging harmony within communities with Indigenous and local people egg hunting and rearing crocodiles for a year before selling them on to go to farms situated in Darwin[22].  

Crocodile farming is not limited to the production of skins for the fashion industry. Crocodiles are also used for economic gain through tourism and on-farm breeding which maintains the state of farms and ensures public understanding of the necessity of crocodile farming in certain communities. In the Northern Territory tourists can visit Crocodylus Park[23] and Crocosaurus Cove[24] to learn about the crocodiles and the trade.[12]

Conservation

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Within certain societies, the crocodile trade is extremely important.[2] Northern Australians initially appreciated the crocodile trade as a valuable resource which in 1945 - 1971 generated significant income at the expense of the crocodile whose uncontrolled trade brought it close to extinction. Full protection over the Australian Saltwater Crocodile was established in 1971 to allow the species to recover.[25] When crocodile numbers increased, however, co-habitation with local people became a problem with a series of fatal and non-fatal attacks on people and fishing boats 1979/1980. The response of the Northern Territory was to establish an 'incentive-driven conservation strategy'[25] which encouraged people to protect the crocodile through commercial activity. These activities included farming, tourism and ranching which generated profits from the "crocodile problem" whilst maintaining crocodile numbers. The Saltwater Crocodiles are seen as a commercial resource by communities who generate wealth and employment through the crocodile industry. This consequently promotes crocodile conservation which would otherwise be absent due to the predatory nature of the animal and the threat it would otherwise pose on human life.[26][27]

There have been significant attempts to maintain a sustainable relationship with the crocodile species through conservative efforts to utilize all parts of the crocodile, including less desirable off cuts. Australian brand Croc Stock and Barra use unwanted sections of skin to handcraft luxury items and ensure waste is limited.[28] Other brands such as Roje Exotics American Leathers claim to use leather that is the byproduct of the international exotic cuisine industry which also ensures fewer skins are wasted within the system.[29]

Animal Welfare

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Main article: animal welfare

The Management Program within the Northern Territory maintains that the crocodiles are farmed in a humane way. It makes assessments on farming limits and population dynamics to ensure the numbers of Saltwater Crocodile are maintained and never reach the lows of 1972 again.[26]

Bibliography

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  1. ^ CrocoWorld. "Crocodile Species". Crocodile Facts and Information. Retrieved 2019-05-11.
  2. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o Hawkins, Huynh, Stephen, Chi (December 2004). Improved Preservation and early stage processing of Australian Crocodile Skins. Australia: Australian Government, Rural Industries Research and Development Cooperation. pp. ISBN 1741510732
  3. ^ a b c https://www.leather-dictionary.com/index.php/Exotic_leather
  4. ^ "Subscribe to read". Financial Times. Retrieved 2019-05-11. {{cite web}}: Cite uses generic title (help)
  5. ^ "Subscribe to read". Financial Times. Retrieved 2019-05-11. {{cite web}}: Cite uses generic title (help)
  6. ^ a b c d e "About Crocodile Leather | Crocodile Leather - Luxury Grade Wholesale Crocodile Hides". Retrieved 2019-05-11.
  7. ^ a b Hawkins, Huynh, Stephen, Chi (December 2004). Improved Preservation and early stage processing of Australian Crocodile Skins. Australia: Australian Government, Rural Industries Research and Development Cooperation. pp. ISBN 1741510732
  8. ^ a b c Thorbjarnarson, John (Jun,1999). "Crocodile Tears and Skins: International Trade, Economic Constraints, and Limits to the Sustainable Use of Crocodilians". Wiley, Society for Conservation Biology. Volume 13: 465–470 – via JSTOR. {{cite journal}}: |volume= has extra text (help); Check date values in: |date= (help)
  9. ^ a b c "Banning exotic leather in fashion hurts snakes and crocodiles in the long run". phys.org. Retrieved 2019-05-12.
  10. ^ a b c d e f g Goulding, Riedel, Bevan, Warfield, Brendan, Elysa, Andrea, Bronwyn (June 2007). Export Markets for Skins and Leather for Australia’s camel, crocodile, emu and goat industries. A report for the Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation. Australia: Australian Government, Rural Industries Research and Development Corporation. pp. 15-32. ISBN 1 74151 486 X
  11. ^ "Saltwater Crocodiles - It's breeding time in the Top End". Croc Cove. 2013-12-18. Retrieved 2019-05-13.
  12. ^ a b c d e Ernst & Young, Northern Territory Crocodile Industry Economic Contribution Analysis (2017). Final Report: Economic Value of the Crocodile Farming Industry to the Northern Territory. Australia: Ernst & Young. pp.1-43.
  13. ^ Dias, Avani (2018-05-28). "Take a rare look inside the Top End's lucrative crocodile industry". triple j. Retrieved 2019-05-12.
  14. ^ a b c "Skin in the fashion game". www.theaustralian.com.au. 2015-07-10. Retrieved 2019-05-13.
  15. ^ "Skin in the fashion game". www.theaustralian.com.au. 2015-07-10. Retrieved 2019-05-12.
  16. ^ a b c d e f g Thorbjarnarson, John (1999). "Crocodile Tears and Skins: International Trade, Economic Constraints, and Limits to the Sustainable Use of Crocodilians". Conservation Biology. 13 (3): 465–470. ISSN 0888-8892.
  17. ^ "Welcome to the di CROCO Boutique". di CROCO. Retrieved 2019-05-12.
  18. ^ "How To Tan an alligator Hide". alligatorhuntingequipment.com. Retrieved 2019-05-13.
  19. ^ a b c "Roje Workshop - Designer Exotic Leather Handbags and Furniture". workshop.rojeleather.com. Retrieved 2019-05-13.
  20. ^ a b Dias, Avani (2018-05-28). "Take a rare look inside the Top End's lucrative crocodile industry". triple j. Retrieved 2019-05-11.
  21. ^ Mendal, Mark. "4 Tips for Making Crocodile Skin Handbags". www.panamleathers.com. Retrieved 2019-05-12.
  22. ^ Vanovac, Neda (2017-07-27). "NT croc industry valued at over $100m, four times previous estimates". ABC News. Retrieved 2019-05-11.
  23. ^ "Crocodylus Park". www.crocodyluspark.com.au. Retrieved 2019-05-13.
  24. ^ "Cage of Death |". Croc Cove. Retrieved 2019-05-13.
  25. ^ a b Parks and Wildlife Service of the Northern Territory (2012–2014). Management Program for the saltwater crocodile in the Northern Territory of Australia 2012-2014. Australia: Northern Territory Government, department of natural resources, environment, the arts and sport. pp. 1-62.
  26. ^ a b Parks and Wildlife Service of the Northern Territory (2012–2014). Management Program for the saltwater crocodile in the Northern Territory of Australia 2012-2014. Australia: Northern Territory Government, department of natural resources, environment, the arts and sport. pp. 1-62.
  27. ^ "Inside the Rugged Lives of Crocodile Hunters". Photography. 2017-08-31. Retrieved 2019-05-12.
  28. ^ "About us | Croc Stock and Barra Leather Products". Croc Stock and Barra. Retrieved 2019-05-12.
  29. ^ "About". workshop.rojeleather.com. Retrieved 2019-05-12.
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