Malika Parbat
| Malika Parbat ملکہ پربت | |
|---|---|
 Malika Parbat literally "Queen of Mountains" | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 5,290 m (17,360 ft)[1] |
| Coordinates | 34°48′21.25″N 73°43′27.58″E / 34.8059028°N 73.7243278°E |
| Geography | |
  Malika Parbat ملکہ پربت  Malika Parbat ملکہ پربت Malika Parbat ملکہ پربت (Khyber Pakhtunkhwa) | |
| Parent range | Himalayas |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | 1920 |
Malika Parbat (Urdu: ملکہ پربت; Queen of the Mountains) (el. 5,290 metres (17,360 ft)) is the highest peak in Kaghan Valley and also the highest in the Hazara region of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan.[2] It lies about 6 kilometres (3.7 mi) south of Lake Saiful Muluk, near Ansoo Lake.
The mountain is clearly visible from the popular tourist spot of Lake Saiful Muluk.[3] Malika Parbat is accessible from Naran-Lake Saiful Muluk side and from Batakundi-Dadar Chitta glacier. There are three summits that form Malika Parbat: Malika Parbat (North Peak), Malika Parbat Cresta, and Malika Parbat (South Peak). There are other peaks which offer considerable climbing difficulty in Siran Basin, Khabanar Valley and Burji Valley, while from Burawai, another cirque of low peaks is equally known for mountaineering.
Climbing history
[edit]
Only twelve climbers have reached the top of Malika Parbat (North Peak) until now. The North Summit was firstly reached by Captain B.W. Battye and four Gurkha soldiers in 1920 followed by a second ascent made by Trevor Braham, Norman Norris and Gene White in 1967.[4]
In 1998, two Pakistanis, Rashid Butt and Omer Aziz climbed the Malika Parbat main peak. Rashid Butt lost his life while descending down the sheer slopes on the south peak.[5] Since then there are no available documentation regarding other ascents or attempts until in July, 2012, a Pakistani climber Imran Junaidi and Jens Simonsen from Denmark reached the peak of Malika Parbat at 5,290 metres (17,360 ft). Imran Junaidi is the first Pakistani to have climbed the north peak. The mountain is considered non-climbable among the local population due to its steepness as well as supernatural hazards. The five-day climbing expedition was initiated by both climbers as an expression of growing friendship between Denmark and Pakistan. This expedition is not only the first ever joint Pakistan-Danish climbing expedition, but it is also the first ever Pakistani ascent of the North Peak.[5][6][7]
In August 2012, an expedition of four members led by Ahmed Mujtaba Ali reported summiting the Malika Parbat. Other members of the expedition were Ahmed Naveed, Kamal Haider and Saqib Ali. The two mountaineers reached 5,180 metres (16,990 ft). By then, clouds had gathered and a hail storm followed.[8][9] Malika Parbat is considered to be the most technical peak above 5,000 metres.[citation needed]
See also
[edit]References
[edit]- ^ "Malika Parbat - Weather Forecast". www.mountain-forecast.com. Retrieved 28 September 2018.
- ^ Shahid, Jamal (2 August 2012). "Pak-Dane expedition: Climb for 'friendship and dreams'". Dawn Newspaper.
- ^ F. White 1968.
- ^ "The First Ascent by Captain B.W. Battye and four Gurkha soldiers in 1920". Eturbo News. Retrieved 28 September 2018.
- ^ a b "The great ascent: Danish diplomat, local climber scale Malika Parbat". The Express Tribune. 3 August 2012. Retrieved 28 September 2018.
- ^ "Malika Parbat (First Pakistani-Danish Mountaineering Expedition) | Pakistan Alpine Institute". Archived from the original on 2013-09-26.
- ^ "Pakistani, Danish climbers make history by scaling 'Malika Parbat'". The International News. August 4, 2012. Retrieved 2012-09-09.
- ^ "Expedition of four members in August, 2012". Dawn. Retrieved 29 September 2018.
- ^ Griffin, Lindsay (2014). "Malika Parbat North (5,222m), north ridge ascents". American Alpine Journal. 56 (88): 282.
Further reading
[edit]- F. White, Gene (1968). "Mali-ka-Parbat, Kaghan Valley, 1967". The Himalayan Journal. 28. Retrieved 29 December 2024.
External links
[edit]- "Panoramic view of MParbat". SummitPost.org. August 2006.
