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Kristin Harila

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Kristin Harila
Harila in 2023
Personal information
Main disciplineMountaineer, Skier
Born (1986-03-28) 28 March 1986 (age 38)
Vestre Jakobselv, Vadsø Municipality, Norway
NationalityNorwegian
Career
Notable ascentsFastest to climb all 14 eight-thousanders in 92 days.[1][2][3][4] Fastest to climb Everest and Lhotse by woman in 8 hours.[5][6]

Kristin Harila (born 28 March 1986)[7] is a Norwegian-Northern Saami[8][9][10] mountaineer and former cross-country skier. During 2022–2023, she set multiple speed records for the ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders, which are the peaks in the world that are over 8,000 metres in elevation.[11][12]

Climbing career

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In May 2021, Harila set a world record Fastest double-header of the Higher Eightthousanders by a woman becoming the fastest woman to climb Mount Everest and Lhotse in under twelve hours. On 22 May 2022, she beat her own record when she crossed from the top of Mount Everest to the top of Lhotse in nine hours, five minutes.[13] Her success in previous expeditions and summit attempts inspired her to embark in 2022 upon her latest challenge, "Bremont 14 Peaks", and become the first woman in history, and the second person after Nirmal Purja, to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks in six months. She came close to beating Purja's record time for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders in a season with only two peaks missing. However, when the Chinese authorities refused her permits to climb Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, her record hunt ended at that point.[12]

On 3 May 2023, Harila achieved her goal of reaching all 14 true geographic summits of the eight-thousanders, after one year and five days, which is a world record Fastest true-summit ascent of the 8,000ers, regardless of gender.[14][15]

On 27 July 2023, Harila and Tenjen Sherpa, her guide from Seven Summit Treks,[16] established a new record summiting all 14 true geographic summits in just 92 days.[7][17][1][18][2] In the process, Kristin and Tenjen broke multiple records, including 26 eight-thousander summits in one year and three months and also the fastest Everest and Lhotse summits by a female, in eight hours.[5][6] They used helicopters to move between base camps and added supplemental oxygen.[12] In 2023 project she planned to scale the mountains without supplemental oxygen. But later, she had to use oxygen cylinders because of safety issues.[7][17] The expenses for her team in regard to her world record, was Norwegian kroner 15 million.[19]

Controversy over Muhammad Hassan's death

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Following her ascent of K2, which completed a record-breaking climb of all 14 true geographic peaks in just 92 days, controversy erupted over the death of a Pakistani high-altitude porter, 27-year-old Muhammad Hassan[20] in a dangerous passage at K2 known as the Bottleneck.[21] Hassan was assigned to a rope fixing team working in the Bottleneck, at an altitude of about 8,200 m (26,900 ft),[22] though he was not wearing a down suit or carrying supplemental oxygen.[23][24] According to Harila, her team found Hassan tangled in his rope after falling from the pass around 2:15am. Harila's team worked for 90 minutes to pull Hassan back onto the path, after which Harila left to assist her team who were caught in an avalanche further up. Harila's cameraman stayed with the injured porter and shared his oxygen for another hour before his own supply ran low and he was forced to rejoin the team.[20][25][26][27] A video published in the days after Harila's ascent showed unidentified climbers walking over Hassan as he lay on the ledge,[28] leading critics to accuse Harila of leaving Hassan to die in pursuit of her world record.[25] Harila denied the allegations and called the release of the video "insensitive",[25] while an official with the Gilgit-Baltistan local government observed that no rescue was possible due to poor weather conditions.[29]

Authorities in Gilgit-Baltistan subsequently launched an investigation into Hassan's death.[26][20] The investigation was completed in September 2023, which led to Lela Peak Expeditions, Hassan's employer, being banned from managing teams in Gilgit-Baltistan for the next two years. The ban came as a result of not providing a porter with adequate equipment, hiring an inexperienced porter to go up the mountain, and not insuring him.[30]

Other activities

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As a cross-country skier, Harila placed 24th and 25th in the Norwegian championships in 2006. She represented the club IL Polarstjernen.[11]

Harila started the Lama Sherpa Foundation to honor Tenjen "Lama" Sherpa who went missing during an avalanche on Shishapangma on 7 October 2023. The foundation aims to bring awareness and resources to sherpas, porters, guides, cooks and other workers in the Himalayas that work on mountaineering expeditions.[31]

Awards

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  • European Adventurer of the Year 2022.[32][33]

Summits

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2015

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2019

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2020

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2021

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2022

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2023

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  • Shishapangma 8,027m – 26 April 2023.[49]
  • Cho Oyu 8,188m – 3 May 2023[14]
  • Makalu 8,481m – 13 May 2023[50][51]
  • Kangchenjunga 8,586m – 18 May 2023[52][53]
  • Mount Everest 8,848m – 23 May 2023[54]
  • Lhotse 8,516m – 23 May 2023 – World record for fastest woman to summit Everest and Lhotse, 8 hours.[54]
  • Dhaulagiri I 8,167m – 29 May 2023[55]
  • Annapurna I 8,091m – 5 June 2023[56][57]
  • Manaslu 8,163m – 10 June 2023[58][59]
  • Nanga Parbat 8,126m – 26 June 2023[60]
  • Gasherbrum II 8,035m – 15 July 2023[61]
  • Gasherbrum I 8,080m – 18 July 2023[62][63]
  • Broad Peak 8,051m – 23 July 2023[64]
  • K2 8,611m – 27 July 2023[1][2]

See also

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  • Nirmal Purja, a previous speed record-holder for ascents of all 14 eight-thousanders
  • Kim Chang-ho (climber), a previous holder of world speed record for all 14 eight-thousanders

References

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  1. ^ a b c Wilhelms, Hanne (27 July 2023). "Harila har satt ny verdensrekord: – Krevende forhold". nrk.no (in Norwegian). Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  2. ^ a b c "Kristin Harila, Tenjen Sherpa world's fastest to climb 14 peaks in 92 days". The Himalayan Times. 27 July 2023. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  3. ^ Binaj Gurubacharya (5 August 2023). "Norwegian climber retires after becoming the fastest to climb world's highest 14 peaks in 92 days". apnews.com. Retrieved 10 August 2023.
  4. ^ Sangay Sherpa (29 July 2023). "Tenjin Sherpa from field to summit of 14 peaks in 92 days with Kristin Harila". The Himalayan Times. Retrieved 10 August 2023.
  5. ^ a b "Kristin Harila scales Everest, Lhotse in 8 hours completing six 8,000ers in less than a month". The Himalayan Times. 23 May 2023. Retrieved 11 August 2023.
  6. ^ a b "Kristin Harila sets a new world record for the fastest ascent of the 14 highest peaks on Earth". Bremont chronometers. 27 July 2023. Retrieved 11 August 2023.
  7. ^ a b c Sanjib Adhikari (27 July 2023). "Kristin Harila Broke the record on 14 Peaks, Beating Nims". Heaven Himalaya. Retrieved 3 August 2023.
  8. ^ MiaB (9 June 2023). "The Sami People: Their Legacy in Polar Expeditions". Kristin Harila. Retrieved 30 June 2024.
  9. ^ Anti, Kila (24 May 2023). "Váiban, muhto buori movttas" [Tired, but in good spirits]. Ávvir (in Northern Sami). Retrieved 30 June 2024. Kristin Harila levge sihke Norgga ja Sámi leavggain go olaha várrečohkaide. Sutnje lea dehálaš čájehit olles máilbmái ahte lea sápmelaš. [Kristin Harila flies both the Norwegian and Saami flags when she reaches the mountain peaks. It is important for her to show the whole world that she is Saami.]
  10. ^ Brecciaroli, Fabrizio (1 August 2023). "Taažâsämmilâš nissoon lii toohâm värikuárŋudem historjá" [Northern Saami woman makes mountain climbing history]. Anarâš aavis (in Inari Sami). Retrieved 30 June 2024.
  11. ^ a b "HARILA Kristin Jonassen - Athlete Information". www.fis-ski.com.
  12. ^ a b c Beaumont, Peter (27 July 2023). "Norwegian woman claims record time for climbing world's 14 highest peaks". The Guardian. Retrieved 28 July 2023.
  13. ^ a b c "Fastest double-header of the Higher Eightthousanders by a woman". Guinness World Records. 22 May 2022. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  14. ^ a b "Kristin Harila completes 14 peaks as she scales Cho Oyu". The Himalayan Times. 3 May 2023. Retrieved 3 May 2023.
  15. ^ "Fastest true-summit ascent of the 8,000ers". Guinness World Records. 3 May 2023. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  16. ^ "Seven Summit Treks: Tenjen Sherpa (Lama)". Seven Summit Treks. Archived from the original on 28 July 2023. Retrieved 1 August 2023.
  17. ^ a b Caolán Magee (27 July 2023). "Norwegian woman and Nepali guide set record for summit of 14 'super peaks'". CNN. Retrieved 3 August 2023.
  18. ^ Arnette, Alan (27 July 2023). "K2 2023 Coverage: Kristin Harila gets K2 for her Last 8000er". alanarnette.com. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
  19. ^ Kristin Harila: – Prosjektet har kostet over 15 millioner. Friflyt.no. Retrieved 11 August 2023. "Oppdatert 2023.08.03 [updated 2023.08.03]"
  20. ^ a b c "Brief of fact-finding inquiry order-on the tragic accident of Pakistani high altitude porter Mr. Muhammad Hassan" (PDF). visitgilgitbaltistan.gov. 5 September 2023.
  21. ^ Schneider, Kate (11 August 2023). "Footage shows climbers 'walked over dying porter' on K2 mountain". news.com.au. Retrieved 25 August 2023.
  22. ^ Badshah, Nadeem (10 August 2023). "Record-breaking mountaineer denies climbing over dying porter on K2". The Guardian. Retrieved 25 August 2023.
  23. ^ "Why Norway's record-breaking climber is facing backlash after Sherpa death". Al Jazeera. 11 August 2023. Retrieved 25 August 2023.
  24. ^ Nestler, Stefan (11 August 2023). "Death on K2: Could Muhammad Hassan have been saved?". Deutsche Welle. Retrieved 25 August 2023.
  25. ^ a b c Kolirin, Lianne; Stern, Chris (13 August 2023). "Mountaineer denies ignoring dying porter on K2 record-breaking climb". CNN Travel. Retrieved 25 August 2023.
  26. ^ a b Drake, Matt (14 August 2023). "Norwegian climber says it would have been impossible to carry injured Pakistani porter down K2". The Independent. Retrieved 25 August 2023.
  27. ^ Grieshaber, Kirsten; Khan, Zarar (14 August 2023). "Norwegian climber says it would have been impossible to carry injured Pakistani porter down snowy K2". AP News. Retrieved 25 August 2023.
  28. ^ Luyken, Jörg (10 August 2023). "Top mountaineer defends walking past dying Sherpa in pursuit of K2 record". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 25 August 2023.
  29. ^ Shahid, Muhammad (12 August 2023). "Pakistani K2 porter death inquiry will hear claims of negligence". The National News. Retrieved 25 August 2023.
  30. ^ Benavides, Angela (10 September 2023). "Muhammad Hassan's Death Marks a Turning Point for K2 Expeditions". Explorersweb. Retrieved 11 July 2024.
  31. ^ "Elite Climber Kristin Harila Launches the Lama Sherpa Foundation". Adventure On SI. 27 November 2024. Retrieved 4 December 2024.
  32. ^ Andrew McLemore (30 November 2022). "Kristin Harila Named European Adventurer of the Year". Explorersweb. Retrieved 10 August 2023.
  33. ^ "Adventurer of the Year 2022". adventureroftheyear.com. Retrieved 10 August 2023.[permanent dead link‍]
  34. ^ a b c d e f g h i j "Bremont Ambassador Kristin Harila". Bremont Chronometers. Retrieved 2 August 2023.
  35. ^ "Ascents – Autumn 2019: Putha Hiunchuli". The Himalayan Database. 4 October 2019. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  36. ^ "Ascents – Spring 2021: Everest (South) (continued)". The Himalayan Database. 23 May 2021. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  37. ^ "Ascents – Spring 2021: Lhotse (continued)". The Himalayan Database. 23 May 2021. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  38. ^ "Ascents – Autumn 2021: Ama Dablam". The Himalayan Database. 28 October 2021. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  39. ^ "Ascents – Spring 2022: Annapurna I". The Himalayan Database. 28 April 2022. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  40. ^ "Ascents – Spring 2022: Dhaulagiri I". The Himalayan Database. 8 May 2022. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  41. ^ "Ascents – Spring 2022: Kangchenjunga (continued)". The Himalayan Database. 14 May 2022. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  42. ^ "Ascents – Spring 2022: Everest (South) (continued)". The Himalayan Database. 22 May 2022. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  43. ^ "Ascents – Spring 2022: Lhotse (continued)". The Himalayan Database. 22 May 2022. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  44. ^ Nagri, Jamil (19 June 2022). "Norwegian climber launches attempt to scale Nanga Parbat". DAWN.COM.
  45. ^ "Ascents – Spring 2022: Makalu (continued)". The Himalayan Database. 27 May 2022. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  46. ^ "Kristin Harila summits K2; inches closer to her 14 peaks mission". everestchronicle.com. 22 July 2022. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
  47. ^ "Sanu Sherpa, Kristin Harila among others scale Manaslu". thehimalayantimes.com. Retrieved 23 September 2022.
  48. ^ "Ascents – Autumn 2022: Manaslu". The Himalayan Database. 22 September 2022. Retrieved 30 July 2023.
  49. ^ "Kristin Harila scales Mount Shishapangma". everestchronicle.com. 26 April 2023. Retrieved 4 May 2023.
  50. ^ "Kristin Harila Summits Makalu With the Rope-Fixing Team » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. 13 May 2023. Retrieved 14 May 2023.
  51. ^ "Harila, among other climbers, summit Makalu". The Himalayan Times. 14 May 2023. Retrieved 19 May 2023.
  52. ^ Benavides, Angela (18 May 2023). "Updated: Harila Summits Kangchenjunga". Explorersweb. Retrieved 19 May 2023.
  53. ^ "Kristin Harila scales Kanchenjunga, completes 4 peaks in 23 days". The Himalayan Times. 18 May 2023. Retrieved 19 May 2023.
  54. ^ a b "Kristin Harila scales Everest, Lhotse in 8hrs completing six 8,000ers in less than a month". The Himalayan Times. 23 May 2023. Retrieved 23 May 2023.
  55. ^ Benavides, Angela (29 May 2023). "Kristin Harila Summits Dhaulagiri". Explorersweb. Retrieved 29 May 2023.
  56. ^ Binaj Gurubacharya (6 June 2023). "Norway climber sets new goal to scale all 14 tallest peaks within 3 months". apnews.com. Retrieved 6 June 2023.
  57. ^ Angela Benavides (5 June 2023). "Harila Bags Annapurna, Eighth 8,000'er This Year". explorersweb.com. Retrieved 6 June 2023.
  58. ^ Annapurna, Kris (10 June 2023). "Controversy As Harila's Team Summits Manaslu — By Using Helicopters in a New Way". Explorersweb. Retrieved 10 June 2023.
  59. ^ "Kristin Harila, Tenjen Sherpa scale 9 peaks in 45 days, to complete all 14 in 3 months". The Himalayan Times. 10 June 2023. Retrieved 11 June 2023.
  60. ^ Benavides, Angela (26 June 2023). "Nanga Parbat Summits » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 26 June 2023.
  61. ^ Benavides, Angela (15 July 2023). "Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II Summits » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 15 July 2023.
  62. ^ "Fjellklatrer Kristin Harila besteg ny fjelltopp". nrk.no (in Norwegian). 18 July 2023. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  63. ^ Benavides, Angela (18 July 2023). "Gasherbrum I Becomes Harila's 12th 8,000'er This Year". Explorersweb. Retrieved 18 July 2023.
  64. ^ Benavides, Angela (23 July 2023). "Harila Tops Out On Broad Peak, Gasherbrum Summit Waves » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 23 July 2023.
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