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Yoshiyuki Ogata

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Yoshiyuki Ogata
Ogata in 2018
Personal information
NationalityJapanese
Born (1998-02-04) February 4, 1998 (age 26)
Kurume, Japan
Occupation(s)Professional sport climber and boulderer
Height171 cm (5 ft 7 in)
Weight61 kg (134 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known forWinner of multiple World Cup medals
Medal record
Event 1st 2nd 3rd
World Cup 3 3 4
World Games 1 0 1
World Cup (Season)
Third place 2019 Bouldering
Winner 2021 Bouldering
Winner 2022 Bouldering
World Cup
Gold medal – first place Salt Lake 2022 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place Innsbruck 2021 Bouldering
Gold medal – first place Vail 2019 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Morioka 2022 Combined
Silver medal – second place Salt Lake 2022 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Meiringen 2022 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place Meiringen 2021 Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place Brixen 2023 Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place Innsbruck 2022 Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place Seoul 2022 Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place Moscow 2019 Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place Vail 2017 Bouldering
Asian Championships
Gold medal – first place 2016 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place 2017 Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place 2017 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2019 Combined
Silver medal – second place 2022 Bouldering
Silver medal – second place 2022 Lead
Asian Cup (Season)
Winner 2017 Lead
World Games
Gold medal – first place 2017 Wrocław Bouldering
Bronze medal – third place 2022 Birmingham Bouldering

Yoshiyuki Ogata (緒方 良行 Ogata Yoshiyuki, born February 4, 1998) is a Japanese professional competition climber and boulderer. He has won multiple medals in competition bouldering at IFSC Climbing World Cup events,[1] including gold medals at Vail in 2019[2] and at Innsbruck in 2021.[3] Ogata won the overall IFSC Men's Bouldering title for the 2021 and 2022 seasons[4][5] and finished third overall in 2019.[1]

Early life and youth competitions

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Born in Kurume, Fukuoka prefecture,[6] Ogata began bouldering at age 10 after he saw the sport on television.[7] At age 17, he won the lead competition at the 2015 Japan Youth National Championships,[8] as well as the bouldering competitions at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships[9] and the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships[10] in the Male Youth A (age 15–17) category. He won another bouldering gold medal as well as a combined silver medal at the World Youth Championships in 2017 in the Male Junior (age 17 to 19) category.[11]

Competition climbing

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Ogata began competing in senior competitions at age 16,[7] entering the Chongqing and Laval World Cups in 2014.[1] At age 18, he won the gold medal in men's bouldering event at the 2016 IFSC Climbing Asian Championships, and collected a silver in bouldering and bronze in lead the following year.[1] Ogata won gold at the men's bouldering event at the 2017 World Games, where he qualified as the 2016 Asian champion.[12] He made his first World Cup podium finish with a bronze medal at the Vail World Cup in 2017,.[13] Ogata won his first World Cup event in bouldering at Vail in 2019[2] and won his second at Innsbruck in 2021.[3] At the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Ogata advanced to the men's final in lead, finishing 7th overall.[14] In 2022, Ogata made the finals in all six IFSC World Cup bouldering events, taking home one gold, two silver, and two bronze medals, and winning the overall title.

Rankings

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IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Discipline 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022 2023
Lead - - - 20 27 - - - 9 7
Bouldering 83 40 18 8 8 3 - 1 1 6

Climbing World Championships

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Youth[1]

Discipline 2014
Youth A
2015
Youth A
2016
Juniors
2017
Juniors
Lead 13 7 - 1
Bouldering - 1 19 1
Speed - - - -
Combined - - - 2

Adult[1]

Discipline 2018 2019 2021 2023
Lead 31 - 7 27
Bouldering 15 14 8 7
Speed 110 - - -
Combined 29 - - 17

World Cup podiums

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Bouldering[1]

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Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2017 1 1
2019 1 1 2
2021 1 1 2
2022 1 2 2 5
2023 1 1
Total 3 3 5 11

Combined

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Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2022 1 1
Total 1 1

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c d e f g "YOSHIYUKI OGATA". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved September 24, 2021.
  2. ^ a b "History is Made in Vail: A Dark Horse and a Season Sweep". Rock & Ice. June 11, 2019. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  3. ^ a b Browne, Ken (June 26, 2021). "Janja Garnbret and Team Japan storm to victory at Innsbruck Sport Climbing World Cup". olympics.com. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  4. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: BOULDER MEN". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved September 23, 2021.
  5. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2022: BOULDER MEN". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved July 16, 2022.
  6. ^ "緒方 良行" (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  7. ^ a b "Friday Feat: One-Pinky Pull-Up". GymClimber. May 7, 2021. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  8. ^ "クライミング・日本ユース選手権2015" (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  9. ^ Murdoch, Shane (August 31, 2015). "Arco 2015, Day Four: Bouldering Results and Canadians Ready for Lead Comp". Gripped. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  10. ^ "IFSC クライミング・アジアユース選手権 プトラジャヤ 2015" (in Japanese). Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  11. ^ "IFSC Youth World Championships 2017 Report". Gripped. August 7, 2018. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  12. ^ "The best climbing photos of the Wroclaw World Games 2017". Planet Mountain. July 26, 2017. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  13. ^ "Indoor Weekly: Watch Vail World Cup 2017 Highlights". Gripped. June 6, 2018. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
  14. ^ Houston, Michael (September 21, 2021). "Schubert and Seo win lead golds on final day of IFSC Climbing World Championships". inside the games. Retrieved September 27, 2021.
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