Spray wall
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A spray wall is an overhanging climbing wall almost fully covered by a great variety of different sizes and shapes of climbing holds, in apparent chaotic distribution.[1] It is used by experienced or even intermediate climbers[1] to train power, endurance and routesetting inventiveness.[2][3][4][5][6][7][8]
According to Noah Walker, author at Gripped Magazine, one of the main differences between a spray wall and a standard climbing board is that spray wall's greater hold density force climbers to develop their own problems[9] ; in particular, he states that the large grips (more frequent on spray walls than in standard boards) force to use similar three-dimensional movements and precarious heel hooks that are necessary for climbing natural walls[9] ; he insists that on a spray wall, a climber can't become as easily used to the distances between holds as with a Moon, Tension, or Kilter board.[9]
Exercise training researchers stated that spray walls help to develop routesetting skils more than standardised training walls, because they force climbers to observe, memorize, and mimick the problem-solving strategies and motor actions of other climbers
as in outdoor climbing.[10]
Professional rock climber Adam Ondra considers it a better tool to develop physical strength for climbers than campus boards or pull-ups.[1]
See also
[edit]- Bachar ladder
- Campus board
- Climbing wall
- Climbing technique
- History of rock climbing
- Rock-climbing equipment
References
[edit]- ^ a b c Adam Ondra, Adam Ondra #53: Spray Wall - An Essential Part Of Training
- ^ Sportrock, What is a “Spray Wall” for?, Aug 17, 2020
- ^ Victor Copeland, An Ode to the Spray Wall, climbing.com, Apr 10, 2023
- ^ The Crux, Why You Should Train on a Spray Wall, July 8, 2024
- ^ Laurence Guyon, Spray wall et escalade : juste une question d’esthétique ?, September 2, 2021
- ^ La Crux, Adam Ondra: «Spraywall-Training bringt den besten Transfer an den Fels», February 7, 2024
- ^ Stian Christophersen, The Climbing Bible: Managing Injuries, Vertebrate Publishing, 2024 :
Learning to train on a spray wall allows you to easily vary hold/grip type, wall angle and move length, enabling quality training without worsening symptoms
- ^ Ned Feehally, Beastmaking : A Fingers-first Approach to Becoming a Better Climber, Vertebrate Publishing, 2021,
The feet follow hands approach makes for some interesting moves and will allow you to train a whole array of move types. Generally, this approach works on body strength and coordination as well as finger strength. You can work on heel hooks and toe hooks too, and learn to make the most of the holds which are available to you. This approach tends to work better on blobby resin holds rather than wooden holds and it is a great way to train. But, you must be careful to make up problems which work your weaknesses, as climbers often swing towards their usual or strongest move style when setting problems. This is the classic 'spray wall' style of climbing. I think it's great, but it generally relies on a bigger board in a big facility to best accommodate it. Most home boards are simply too small to work well with this approach. Also, if you have a board with wooden handholds, you'll probably want to use specific footholds so that you don't ruin your lovely wooden holds by standing on them!
- ^ a b c Noah Walker, How to Use a Spray Wall, gripped.com, December 2, 2021
- ^ Medernach JP, Henz J, Memmert D. Mechanisms underlying superior memory of skilled climbers in indoor bouldering. J Sports Sci. 2023 Oct;41(20):1837-1844. doi: 10.1080/02640414.2023.2300569. Epub 2024 Jan 2. PMID: 38166602
External links
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