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Lead climbing at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Lead climbing
at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location
Dates4 July – 27 October 2019
Champions
MenCzech Republic Adam Ondra
WomenSouth Korea Chaehyun Seo
← 2018
2020 →

Competition lead climbing at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held over six stages at six different locations, from 4 July to 27 October 2019. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Adam Ondra won the men's seasonal title, Chaehyun Seo won the women's seasonal title, and Japan won the national team title.[1]

Winners overview

[edit]
Date Location Men Women
July, 4–6 Switzerland Villars, Switzerland Switzerland Sascha Lehmann Slovenia Janja Garnbret
July, 11–13 France Chamonix, France Czech Republic Adam Ondra South Korea Chaehyun Seo
July, 19–20 France Briançon, France Japan Hidemasa Nishida South Korea Chaehyun Seo
September, 28–29 Slovenia Kranj, Slovenia Czech Republic Adam Ondra South Korea Chaehyun Seo
October, 18–20 China Xiamen, China Czech Republic Adam Ondra South Korea Chaehyun Seo
October, 26–27 Japan Inzai, Japan Japan Hiroto Shimizu South Korea Jain Kim
OVERALL WINNERS Czech Republic Adam Ondra South Korea Chaehyun Seo
NATIONAL TEAM Japan Japan

Overall ranking

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The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

[edit]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019:[2]

Rank NAME Points Inzai Xiamen Kranj Briançon Chamonix Villars
1 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 300.00 ( — ) 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 ( — ) 1. 100.00 ( — )
2 Spain Alberto Ginés López 256.00 2. 80.00 5. 51.00 3. 65.00 22. 9.00 5. 51.00 26. (5.00)
3 Canada Sean McColl 206.00 6. 47.00 26. (5.00) 4. 55.00 5. 51.00 7. 43.00 21. 10.00
4 Japan Kai Harada 195.00 25. 6.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 ( — ) 8. 40.00 19. 14.00
5 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 190.00 3. 65.00 13. 25.00 6. 47.00 15. 22.00 26. (5.00) 11. 31.00
6 Japan Hiroto Shimizu 180.00 1. 100.00 ( — ) ( — ) 2. 80.00 ( — ) ( — )
7 Japan Kokoro Fujii 165.00 20. 12.00 11. 31.00 5. 51.00 ( — ) 11. 31.00 8. 40.00
7 Germany Alexander Megos 165.00 ( — ) ( — ) ( — ) 16. 20.00 2. 80.00 3. 65.00
9 United States Sean Bailey 158.00 8. 40.00 8. 40.00 14. 24.00 6. 47.00 24. 7.00 ( — )
10 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 152.00 ( — ) ( — ) ( — ) 13. 26.00 13. 26.00 1. 100.00

Women

[edit]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019:[3]

Rank NAME Points Inzai Xiamen Kranj Briançon Chamonix Villars
1 South Korea Chaehyun Seo 480.00 3. (65.00) 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00
2 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 352.00 2. 80.00 4. 55.00 13. (26.00) 2. 80.00 9. 37.00 1. 100.00
3 Japan Natsuki Tanii 243.00 6. 47.00 5. 51.00 ( — ) 3. 65.00 8. 40.00 8. 40.00
4 Slovenia Lucka Rakovec 226.00 16. (20.00) 6. 47.00 3. 65.00 14. 24.00 7. 43.00 6. 47.00
5 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 224.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 ( — ) ( — ) 10. 34.00 4. 55.00
6 Japan Ai Mori 220.00 20. 12.00 9. 37.00 5. 51.00 ( — ) 4. 55.00 3. 65.00
7 China YueTong Zhang 207.00 ( — ) 7. 43.00 ( — ) 6. 47.00 2. 80.00 9. 37.00
8 South Korea Jain Kim 206.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 9. 37.00 ( — ) ( — ) 27. 4.00
9 Slovenia Mia Krampl 189.00 22. 9.00 24. (7.00) 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 11. 31.00 5. 51.00
10 Austria Jessica Pilz 176.00 ( — ) ( — ) 2. 80.00 ( — ) 3. 65.00 11. 31.00

National Teams

[edit]

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2019:[4]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Inzai Xiamen Kranj Briançon Chamonix Villars
1 Japan 1695 345 368 306 375 (220) 301
2 Slovenia Slovenia 988 (109) 112 210 224 139 303
3 South Korea Republic of Korea 758 174 206 137 116 (106) 125
4  United States 612 151 103 75 179 104 (22)
5 Austria Austria 525 (47) 53 143 91 166 72
6 Czech Republic Czech Republic 484 18 136 146 (0) 147 37
7  France 440 66 (44) 65 112 111 86
8 Italy Italy 434 115 90 91 87 (29) 51
9 Germany Germany 381 (24) 79 30 51 138 83
10 United Kingdom Great Britain 360 68 62 (31) 75 110 45

Villars, Switzerland (July, 4–6)

[edit]

97 men and 86 women attended the event.[1]

In men's, Switzerland's Sascha Lehmann topped the final route and claimed victory in front of his home crowd. China's YuFei Pan and Germany's Alexander Megos, also topped the final route, placed second and third respectively due to count-backs to the semi-final. Japan's Tomoa Narasaki, who was leading in the semi-final round, stepped on the rope and slipped, taking sixth place.[5][6]

In women's, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret was the winner of the event. In the semi-final round, Garnbret claimed the only top of the route despite dropping her chalk bag.[7] South Korea's 15-year-old Chaehyun Seo took second place in her first adult World Cup competition. Japan's Ai Mori, also 15 years old, took third place. South Korea's Jain Kim was forced to withdraw from the competition after suffering a finger injury in the qualification round.[5][6]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 23+ TOP 36+ TOP 1st place, gold medalist(s) Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP TOP TOP 36+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) China YuFei Pan 17+ TOP 32 TOP 2nd place, silver medalist(s) South Korea Chaehyun Seo 33+ 32 48+ 35+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Germany Alexander Megos TOP TOP 31+ TOP 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Ai Mori 40+ 32+ 47 35+
4 Slovenia Domen Škofic TOP 37 36+ 39+ 4 Japan Akiyo Noguchi 35+ 31+ 42+ 35+
5 Japan Meichi Narasaki 32+ 31+ 31+ 39+ 5 Slovenia Mia Krampl 35+ 33 38 35+
6 Japan Tomoa Narasaki 37+ 30 37+ 34+ 6 Slovenia Lucka Rakovec 31 30+ 30+ 35+
7 Japan Yuki Hada 35+ 30 36+ 22 7 France Julia Chanourdie 28+ 33+ 30 35+
8 Japan Kokoro Fujii 35+ 29+ 33+ 8 8 Japan Natsuki Tanii 33+ 32+ 39+ 35

Chamonix, France (July, 11–13)

[edit]

111 men and 103 women attended the event.[1]

In men's, Czech Republic's Adam Ondra topped both qualification routes, ascended higher than anyone else on the semi-final and final routes, and thus securing the win. Germany's Alexander Megos took second place while Austria's Jakob Schubert took third. Ondra would skip the Briançon's event to prepare for the World Championships.[8][9]

In women's, the final's bottleneck led to count-backs to semi-final results. Eventually, South Korea's Chaehyun Seo took the win. China's YueTong Zhang placed second and Austria's Jessica Pilz third. The winner of last week's event, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret slipped on the semi-final route, placing 9th, barely missing the final. This was the first time Garnbret ever missed a Lead World Cup final.[8][9]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) Czech Republic Adam Ondra TOP TOP 44+ 47+ 1st place, gold medalist(s) South Korea Chaehyun Seo TOP TOP 50 34+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Germany Alexander Megos 40+ TOP 35 44 2nd place, silver medalist(s) China YueTong Zhang 36+ 39+ 50 34+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Austria Jakob Schubert 32+ TOP 36+ 43+ 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Austria Jessica Pilz 41+ 26+ 50 34+
4 United Kingdom William Bosi 21.5+ 40 38+ 39+ 4 Japan Ai Mori 35+ 41+ 45 34+
5 Spain Alberto Ginés López 20+ TOP 42+ 33+ 5 United States Ashima Shiraishi 41+ 36+ 42+ 34+
6 Czech Republic Martin Stráník 30+ 41+ 35+ 31+ 6 United Kingdom Molly Thompson-Smith 24 36+ 42+ 26+
7 Canada Sean McColl 21.5+ 36+ 36 25+ 7 Slovenia Lucka Rakovec 42 26+ 49+ 25+
8 Japan Kai Harada 32+ TOP 38+ 22 8 Japan Natsuki Tanii 37+ 26+ 52+ 17+

Briançon, France (July, 19–20)

[edit]

88 men and 79 women attended the event.[1]

In men's, the Japanese team swept the podium. Hidemasa Nishida claimed the win, Hiroto Shimizu placed second, and Shuta Tanaka placed third. None of them had been on a World Cup podium before.[10][11]

In women's, last week's winner, South Korea's Chaehyun Seo took the win again. Seo and Slovenian superstar Janja Garnbret topped the final route, but Seo pushed Garnbret to second place by count-back to the semi-final results. Japan's Natsuki Tanii placed third.[10][11]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) Japan Hidemasa Nishida 39+ 42+ 31+ 39+ 1st place, gold medalist(s) South Korea Chaehyun Seo 39+ TOP TOP TOP
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Japan Hiroto Shimizu 40+ 42+ 38+ 38+ 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Slovenia Janja Garnbret 38+ TOP 43+ TOP
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Shuta Tanaka 41 40+ 34 38+ 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Natsuki Tanii 39+ TOP 43+ 41+
4 United Kingdom William Bosi 39+ 40 37+ 38 4 Slovenia Mia Krampl 37 35+ 43 36
5 Canada Sean McColl 40 43+ 36+ 38 5 United States Ashima Shiraishi 30+ 35+ 41+ 36
6 United States Sean Bailey 40+ 42+ 38+ 34+ 6 China YueTong Zhang 31+ 35+ 42+ 33+
7 Slovenia Domen Škofic 40+ 43+ 32+ 34+ 7 Slovenia Vita Lukan 30 35+ 37.5 32+
8 Italy Marcello Bombardi 40+ 38+ 32+ 34+ 8 France Nina Arthaud 22+ 26 37.5+ 24+

Kranj, Slovenia (September, 28–29)

[edit]

72 men and 53 women attended the event.[1]

In men's, Czech Republic's Adam Ondra, having just won the Lead World Championships in August, claimed the only top of the final route, securing the win. Japan's Kai Harada took second place and Spain's Alberto Ginés López took third.[12][13][14]

In women's, South Korea's Chaehyun Seo continued her winning streak, claiming her third gold medal. Austria's Jessica Pilz took second place and Slovenia's Lucka Rakovec took third. Japan's Ai Mori topped both qualification routes and led the field in the semi-fnal round, but struggled in the final and had to settle for 5th place. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret, having just won the Lead World Championships in August, struggled in the semi-final and placed 13th. This event marked the return of South Korea's Jain Kim to the World Cup circuit after her finger injury. Kim placed 9th, barely missing a spot in the final.[12][13][14]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) Czech Republic Adam Ondra TOP TOP 39+ TOP 1st place, gold medalist(s) South Korea Chaehyun Seo TOP 29+ 38 34.5+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Japan Kai Harada TOP TOP 35+ 32 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Austria Jessica Pilz TOP 29+ 34+ 34.5
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Spain Alberto Ginés López TOP TOP 29+ 31.5+ 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Slovenia Lucka Rakovec 36+ 29+ 38+ 34+
4 Canada Sean McColl 37+ 35 27+ 30+ 4 Belgium Anak Verhoeven TOP 35+ 34+ 34+
5 Japan Kokoro Fujii TOP TOP 28+ 27+ 5 Japan Ai Mori TOP TOP 38+ 20+
6 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi TOP TOP 30+ 25+ 6 Japan Natsumi Hirano TOP 27+ 37+ 20+
7 Austria Jakob Schubert 37+ TOP 37+ 12+ 7 Slovenia Mia Krampl TOP 32+ 34+ 20+
8 Czech Republic Martin Stráník 37+ 35 30+ 12+ 8 Japan Mei Kotake TOP 23 34+ 20+

Xiamen, China (October, 18–20)

[edit]

55 men and 51 women attended the event.[1]

In men's, Czech Republic's Adam Ondra claimed his third win, undefeated in the lead events he participated in. Japan's Taisei Homma and Tomoa Narasaki placed second third respectively. Japan's Kai Harada led the semi-final round but fell short in the final round, placing 4th.[15][16]

In women's, South Korea's Chaehyun Seo topped all the routes of the event, securing her fourth consecutive win and the overall Lead World Champion title. Japan's Akiyo Noguchi claimed second place, while South Korea's Jain Kim claimed third. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret, along with Seo, topped qualification and semi-final routes, but fell trying to jump to the top on the final route, thus finishing in 4th place.[15][16]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) Czech Republic Adam Ondra TOP TOP 31+ TOP 1st place, gold medalist(s) South Korea Chaehyun Seo TOP TOP TOP TOP
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Japan Taisei Homma 37+ TOP 31+ TOP 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Japan Akiyo Noguchi 35+ TOP 38+ TOP
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Tomoa Narasaki 37 TOP 31+ TOP 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) South Korea Jain Kim 35+ TOP 38+ TOP
4 Japan Kai Harada TOP TOP 35+ 31+ 4 Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP TOP TOP 37+
5 Spain Alberto Ginés López TOP TOP 31+ 29+ 5 Japan Natsuki Tanii 35+ TOP 33.5 37+
6 Japan Meichi Narasaki 38 TOP 31+ 26 6 Slovenia Lucka Rakovec TOP TOP 33+ 37+
7 United States Jesse Grupper TOP TOP 31+ 25+ 7 China YueTong Zhang 35+ TOP TOP 34+
8 United States Sean Bailey 37+ TOP 31+ 23+ 8 Ukraine Ievgeniia Kazbekova 35+ TOP 36+ 31+
9 Japan Ai Mori TOP TOP 33+ 10+

Inzai, Japan (October, 26–27)

[edit]

54 men and 52 women attended the event.[1]

In men's, Japan's Hiroto Shimizu claimed the gold medal. Spain's Alberto Ginés López placed second and Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi third. Czech Republic's Adam Ondra, absent from the competition, claimed the lead season's champion title.[17][18][19]

In women's, South Korea's veteran Jain Kim topped the final route and secured the win, claiming her 30th gold medal in the World Cup competitions. Slovenia's Janja Garnbret was leading the competition coming into the final, but could not match Kim's top in the final round, thus placed second. South Korea's Chaehyun Seo, the lead season's overall champion, finished in third place.[17][18][19]

Men Women
Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
R1 R2 R1 R2
1st place, gold medalist(s) Japan Hiroto Shimizu 38+ 38+ 32+ 38+ 1st place, gold medalist(s) South Korea Jain Kim TOP TOP 33+ TOP
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Spain Alberto Ginés López 34+ TOP TOP 36+ 2nd place, silver medalist(s) Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP TOP 41 39
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 38+ TOP 32+ 32+ 3rd place, bronze medalist(s) South Korea Chaehyun Seo 35+ 35+ 33+ 37+
4 Japan Yuki Hada 38+ TOP 31+ 28+ 4 Japan Akiyo Noguchi TOP TOP 30 36+
5 United States Jesse Grupper 31+ 17+ 30+ 28+ 5 Japan Miho Nonaka 35+ TOP 28+ 34+
6 Canada Sean McColl 38+ 2+ 34 27+ 6 Japan Natsuki Tanii TOP 35 28+ 34+
7 Belgium Loïc Timmermans 30+ 33+ 30+ 22+ 7 Italy Laura Rogora TOP 36 28+ 20
8 United States Sean Bailey 35+ 31+ 34 19+ 8 Japan Aika Tajima 30+ 35+ 29 19+
9 Japan Meichi Narasaki 31+ 17+ 30+ 19+

References

[edit]
  1. ^ a b c d e f g "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
  2. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: M E N LEAD". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  3. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: W O M E N LEAD". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  4. ^ "IFSC LEAD WORLD CUP 2019: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2019-10-28.
  5. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Villars World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed". Climbing. 2019-07-08. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
  6. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup Villars 2019 - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  7. ^ Janja Garnbret loses chalkbag and climbs world cup semifinal without chalk?!, retrieved 2021-09-04
  8. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Chamonix World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed". Climbing. 2019-07-15. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  9. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup Chamonix 2019: Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  10. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Briançon World Cup 2019—Lead". Climbing. 2019-07-22. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  11. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup Briançon 2019: Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  12. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Kranj World Cup 2019—Lead". Climbing. 2019-10-01. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  13. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup 2019: Kranj - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  14. ^ a b "Lead Climbing Results From Kranj 2019 - IFSC Climbing World Cup - Climber News". www.climbernews.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  15. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Xiamen World Cup 2019—Lead and Speed". Climbing. 2019-10-21. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  16. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup 2019: Xiamen - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  17. ^ a b "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Inzai World Cup 2019—Lead". Climbing. 2019-10-28. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  18. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cup Inzai 2019: Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
  19. ^ a b "A Legendary Showing at Inzai World Cup 2019". Gripped Magazine. 2019-10-27. Retrieved 2021-09-04.
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