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Jil Sander (brand)

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Jil Sander S.p.A.
Company typeSubsidiary
IndustryFashion
Founded1968; 56 years ago (1968) in Hamburg, Germany
FounderJil Sander
HeadquartersForo Buonaparte, 71,
Milano
,
Italy
Number of locations
42 (2022)
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
Products
Revenue¥11.3 billion[1] (2019)
ParentOTB Group
Websitewww.jilsander.com

Jil Sander, S.p.A. is a luxury fashion house founded in 1968 in Hamburg, Germany and currently headquartered in Milan, Italy. Founded by Jil Sander, the brand is best known for its minimalist and clean designs. The brand was acquired by Prada in 1999 and Sander subsequently departed her eponymous label due to creative differences.[2] After several changes of ownership, the Jil Sander brand was acquired by Italian fashion group OTB in March 2021. Luke and Lucie Meier were named co-creative directors of Jil Sander in 2017, succeeding Rodolfo Paglialunga.[3] In 2017, Ubaldo Minelli, CEO of OTB Group, was appointed CEO of the brand.[4]

History

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Beginnings

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Founded by Jil Sander in 1968, the company's first womenswear collection was launched in 1973, menswear followed in 1997.[5][6][7] Her first collection – there was just one of each item – sold out in a week.[8] From 1974, she sold her own collections alongside fashion by Sonia Rykiel, Thierry Mugler and others. The first fragrance – Woman Pure – was launched in 1979.[9] During those years, all of the brand's boutiques were designed by New York architect Michael Gabellini.[10]

In the 1980s, Sander presented her collections at the Milan fashion shows. With fashion alone, the company made a turnover of 20 million marks in 1981.[11]

Jil Sander Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear, designed by Raf Simons

The company went public and was listed on the Frankfurt stock exchange in 1989;[12] in the process, Sander herself sold a one-third ownership for $56 million while retaining control over the voting shares.[9] Also in 1989, the company established a manufacturing site in Ellerau, near Hamburg.[13]

The 1990s are considered to be the heyday of the Jil Sander brand.[14] Flagship stores were built in Tokyo, Hong Kong and Taipei, and Sander worked on the design in collaboration with Gabellini and other architects. In 1993 a flagship store was added on Avenue Montaigne in Paris. In 1995, the company moved into two 18th-century palazzi on Harvestehuder Weg, overlooking the Außenalster lake in the north of Hamburg; they were redesigned by Gabellini.[15][8]

In 1992, the designer Roberto Menichetti was hired as Sander's assistant for the women's collection.[16] The footwear collaboration between Jil Sander and Puma from 1996 onwards goes back to his and Sanders' designs – the designer sneaker King was first presented in 1996,[17] the Easy Rider model followed in 1997. In 1997, Jil Sander launched the men's fashion collection; Menichetti also contributed to these designs.[18] Men's fashion soon contributed around 20 percent to group sales.[19]

Also in 1997, Jil Sander established Tailor Made, a line of hand-tailored classic suits in luxury fabrics in limited quantities.[20]

Prada, 1999–2006

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In 1999, Prada Group bought a 75 percent share in the company,[12][21] for which it reportedly paid more than $100 million.[22] It later increased that stake to 98 percent.[23] At the time, Sander said publicly that she partnered with Prada in large part to expand her brand's accessories business.[24] Six months later, Sander departed the company as chairwoman and creative director, and nearly all the design and production staff left as well.[25] The company, which had been profitable before the sale to Prada, lost money in 2001 and 2002.[25]

In 2003, Sander returned to the brand as creative director, for a six-year contract.[26] As part of the deal, she got to sit on Prada’s strategic committee, alongside Bertelli and Miuccia Prada.[26] She was also given the option to join Jil Sander’s board at a later stage.[26] However she decided to leave again 18 months later.[25]

A restructuring that began in 2004 led Prada to predict that the Jil Sander brand would break even by 2006.[22] The brand's only German production site in Ellerau – with a total of around 160 employees – was closed in 2005.[27] All production has since been taking place in Italy.[28][27] The company’s net loss further widened to 29.6 million euros ($37 million) in 2004[29] and to 37.3 million euros ($46.3 million) in 2005.[30]

Jil Sander store at Hamburg's Neuer Wall

In February 2005, the long-standing in-house design team and Sander’s longtime stylist, Joe McKenna, presented the first Jil Sander collection since the founder’s departure.[29] In May 2005, it was announced that Raf Simons had become creative director for the women's and men's collection.[citation needed] Simons wanted to "strip it down so there was nothing that wasn't necessary".[31] Suzy Menkes, the principal fashion writer for the International Herald Tribune, said that some items in the collection "made exceptional pieces" but overall it "was not as strong as before."[32] The Fall/Winter collection, however, received accolades from IHT.[33] Simons' first women’s collection was shown at Milan Fashion Week in 2006. The collection received a positive review from the Evening Standard[34] and the Los Angeles Times.[35]

Change Capital, 2006–2009

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In 2006, Luc Vandevelde's London-based private equity firm Change Capital Partners LLP bought the company from Prada for an undisclosed sum thought to be about £68 million.[36][21][37] It also gave equity in the company to Simons, along with two top managers.[22]

At that point, the Telegraph reported that the company was in better shape financially.[21] Prada CEO Patrizio Bertelli said: "As we focus on the development of the Prada and Miu Miu brands, I am certain that Change Capital Partners will be able to provide the necessary investment to further grow the Jil Sander business."[38] Raf Simons remained creative director at Jil Sander.[39] Under Change Capital ownership, the company moved from negative ebitda of €12.9 million in 2005 to positive ebitda of €6.1 million in 2007.[40][41]

In July 2008, Jil Sander finalized its squeeze-out, initially set in motion in 2006, and fully delisted a remaining two percent stake from the Frankfurt Stock Exchange.[42]

Onward Holdings, 2008–2021

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In September 2008, Onward Holdings Co. Ltd. (TYO: 8016), a Japanese multi-brand fashion conglomerate, and its European subsidiary GIBO' CO. S.p.A. acquired unlisted Violine S.à r.l., a Luxembourg-based holding firm that had the Jil Sander brand under its wing, for 167 million euros (US$244 million).[43][44][45]

In 2019, Jil Sander collaborated with Mackintosh on a series of functional outerwear pieces and accessories.[46]

OTB Group, 2021–present

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In March 2021, OTB Group acquired 100 percent of the Jil Sander brand.[47]

In 2022, Jil Sander launched Indulgence, a new line of apparel and accessories characterized by high-end fabrics, plush textures and buttery colors.[48]

Leadership

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Designers

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CEOs

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  • Patrizio Bertelli: 1999–2004[51]
  • Gian Giacomo Ferraris: 2004–2009[52]
  • Alessandro Cremonesi: 2009–2015[53][54]
  • Alessandra Bettari: 2015–2018[53]
  • Axel Keller: 2018–2023[55]
  • Ubaldo Minelli: 2021–2023[56]
  • Luca Lo Curzio: 2023–present[57]

Locations

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As of August 2022, Jil Sander operates 42 stores in Europe, Asia, and North America, including in London, Frankfurt, Milan, Paris, Zurich, Tokyo, Seoul, Shanghai, and New York City.[58]

Other projects

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Fragrances

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Jil Sander's first women's fragrance, Jil Sander Pure, was launched in 1977 and its first men's perfume, Jil Sander Man Pure, in 1981.,[59] both as part of a licensing agreement with Coty; it was most recently renewed in 2023.[60] Jil Sander launched a women’s Sun fragrance in 1989,[61] No. 4 which was launched in 1991.[62] In 1997, Quest International developed the Jil fragrance.[63] Each scent was concocted with Jil Sander’s creative input before she left her namesake brand in 2004.[64]

Later fragrances have included Jil Sander Sport (2005), aimed at 18 to 25-year-olds,[64] and Jil Sander Style (2006), a scent created to appeal to women who are 30 and older.[65]

Innerwear and beachwear

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In 2008, Jil Sander entered into a licensing agreement with Albisetti to produce innerwear and beachwear.[66]

Eyewear

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From the early 1990s, French luxury eyewear designer Alain Mikli held the license for Jil Sander Eyes.[67] In 2008, the brand entered into a licensing agreement with Marchon Eyewear to produce and distribute men’s and women’s eyewear.[68]

Jewelry

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After a first capsule fine jewelry collection in 2009, Jil Sander entered into a licensing agreement with Damiani to create a complete line of jewelry and watches.[69]

Diffusion line

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Jil Sander Navy, a diffusion line priced 30% to 40% lower than the Jil Sander collection, was launched in 2011.[70] Its design was not overseen by Raf Simons,[71] but by a separate design team.[72] Garments included outerwear, light jackets, and knitwear as well as t-shirts, blouses, and dresses.

The first deliveries were for spring 2011, with an initial focus on the U.S. and Japan.[72] The first Jil Sander Navy flagship opened in Milan in 2013, as well as a temporary store in London.[73] The line was discontinued in 2019.

Electronics

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In 2011, Jil Sander and LG Electronics launched the fashion brand's first-ever mobile phone.[74] Conceived by Jil Sander Corporate Design, another LG Electronics smartphone was launched in 2022.[75]

Footwear

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As part of Birkenstock's 1774 project, a collaborative collection that saw designs created by Valentino, Proenza Schouler and Rick Owens, Jil Sander teamed up with the footwear brand in 2022 on four shoe designs.[76]

Sportswear

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In 2021, Jil Sander collaborated with outdoors brand Arc'teryx on a collection of men’s, women’s and unisex clothing.[77]

Campaigns

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Jil Sander has been working with several high-profile photographers for its advertisement campaigns, including Francesco Scavullo (1977),[78] Nick Knight (1991–1993),[79] Peter Lindbergh (1993–1994),[80] Craig McDean (1995–1996,[81] 2001),[82] Bruce Weber (1997),[62] David Sims (1997–1999, 2003–2006),[83][64] Mario Sorrenti (2000),[84] Richard Avedon (2002–2003), Mikael Jansson (2003),[85] Wim Wenders (2018)[86] and Joel Meyerowitz (2021).[87]

Recognition

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See also

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References

[edit]
  1. ^ Alexander Fury (9 January 2020), Jil Sander — content simply to be simple Financial Times.
  2. ^ Petra Kappl Designer In Reticence", nytimes.com, 26 May 2002.
  3. ^ Elizabeth Paton (April 7, 2017), Jil Sander Gets New Creative Directors; Emilio Pucci Loses One The New York Times.
  4. ^ Zargani, Luisa. "Jil Sander Has a New CEO". Retrieved 15 September 2021.
  5. ^ style.com - Jil Sander
  6. ^ nymag.com - Jil Sander
  7. ^ ""Ich möchte aufrütteln: Seht doch genau hin"". Der Spiegel (in German). 1987-06-28. ISSN 2195-1349. Retrieved 2021-11-19.
  8. ^ a b Tamsin Blanchard (11 January 2004), Clean and serene The Guardian.
  9. ^ a b Genevieve Buck (September 14, 1994), Jil Sander Designs Expansion Chicago Tribune.
  10. ^ Genevieve Buck (September 14, 1994), Jil Sander Designs Expansion Chicago Tribune.
  11. ^ "Bein am Boden". Der Spiegel (in German). 1982-03-28. ISSN 2195-1349. Retrieved 2021-11-19.
  12. ^ a b c d e f g h "JIL SANDER (BRAND)". Vogue. Archived from the original on 2013-01-29. Retrieved 2013-01-09.
  13. ^ Jil Sander: Angst um Jobs in der Produktion Ellerau Die Welt, 1 September 1999.
  14. ^ ""Man muss Sinn haben für das effortless"". Der Tagesspiegel Online (in German). 2009-03-25. ISSN 1865-2263. Retrieved 2021-11-19.
  15. ^ Brigitte Blobel (12 March 1999), Ein weißes Château für die Haute Couture Hamburger Abendblatt.
  16. ^ "Roberto Menichetti". www.menichetti.com. Retrieved 2021-11-19.
  17. ^ Richard Benson (25 January 2006), A fresh chapter in the trainer wars The Guardian.
  18. ^ Adrian Clark (9 July 1999), 21st century boys The Guardian.
  19. ^ "Medizinmann Mode". stern.de (in German). Retrieved 2021-11-19.
  20. ^ Anne-Marie Schiro (29 April 1997), For the Rich, a New High End New York Times.
  21. ^ a b c White, Belinda (February 23, 2012). "Jil Sander to return to Jil Sander?". London: Telegraph.
  22. ^ a b c Eric Wilson (24 February 2006), Private Equity Group to Buy Jil Sander Label From Prada New York Times.
  23. ^ Miles Socha (24 February 2006), Strategy for Jil Sander: Buyer to Grow Brand, Sell It in 3 to 5 Years Women's Wear Daily.
  24. ^ Ginia Bellafante (25 January 2000), Jil Sander is divorcing Prada. After next month's fall women's collection in Milan, she plans to leave her signature company. New York Times.
  25. ^ a b c Cathy Horyn (27 May 2005), Prada Hires a Men's Wear Designer to Direct Its Jil Sander Division New York Times.
  26. ^ a b c Sander and Bertelli: Together Once Again and Ready to Grow Women's Wear Daily, 23 May 2003.
  27. ^ a b Corinna Visser (24 February 2006), Britischer Investor kauft Jil Sander Der Tagesspiegel.
  28. ^ Amanda Kaiser (9 March 2005), Sander to Meet on Production Move Women's Wear Daily.
  29. ^ a b Amanda Kaiser (5 May 2005), Prada Says Sander in Red, Considering Lang Sale Women's Wear Daily.
  30. ^ Amanda Kaiser (30 May 2006), Jil Sander Loss Hits $46.3 Million in 2005 Women's Wear Daily.
  31. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2007-12-21. Retrieved 2007-04-22.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: archived copy as title (link)
  32. ^ "Raf Simons sends out his futuristic gladiators - Style - International Herald Tribune". www.iht.com. Archived from the original on 2005-06-29.
  33. ^ "Simons with Sander: A good fit in time of quirky nobility - Style - International Herald Tribune". www.iht.com. Archived from the original on 2006-07-16.
  34. ^ "This is London Magazine".
  35. ^ "Raf Simons' first collection for the Jil Sander line burns brightly with its subtle luxury". Los Angeles Times. Archived from the original on March 3, 2006.
  36. ^ Julia Kollewe (24 February 2006), Vandevelde snaps up Jil Sander for £68m The Independent.
  37. ^ Bloomberg - Prada Sells Jil Sander to Vandevelde's Change Capital
  38. ^ "Jil Sander has a new owner after a "very, very, very good" offer | Vogue". Archived from the original on 2007-09-27. Retrieved 2007-04-22.
  39. ^ Wilson, Eric (February 24, 2006). "Private Equity Group to Buy Jil Sander Label From Prada". The New York Times.
  40. ^ Andrew Roberts (29 July 2008), Jil Sander Said for Sale Women's Wear Daily.
  41. ^ Gwen Robinson (2 September 2008), Onward fashions deal for Jil Sander Financial Times.
  42. ^ Alessandra Ilari (1 September 2008), Jil Sander Undergoes Another Major Change: New Ownership Women's Wear Daily.
  43. ^ Jil Sander returns to fashion with Uniqlo The Telegraph, 23 March 2009
  44. ^ Change Capital Partners to sell Jil Sander to Onward and GIBO Archived 2021-10-28 at the Wayback Machine Change Capital Partners, 1 September 2008
  45. ^ Silvia Ognibene (19 June 2010), Jil Sander says full recovery could be years out Reuters.
  46. ^ Maisie Skidmore (20 October 2022), Linda Tegg creates a living installation for Jil Sander at its Milanese HQ Wallpaper.
  47. ^ Luisa Zargani (March 5, 2021), OTB Acquires Jil Sander Brand Women's Wear Daily. In September 2021, Ubaldo Minelli, CEO of OTB, was also appointed CEO of the brandhttps://wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/jil-sander-new-ceo-1234926375/.
  48. ^ Sandra Salibian (17 November 2022), A Look Into Jil Sander’s ‘Indulgence’ Line Women's Wear Daily.
  49. ^ Luisa Zargani (15 March 2017), Jil Sander Confirms Exit of Rodolfo Paglialunga Women's Wear Daily.
  50. ^ Creative Director Rodolfo Paglialunga leaves Jil Sander Associated Press, 15 March 2017.
  51. ^ Ferraris Leaves Gucci Women's Wear Daily, 28 May 2004.
  52. ^ Alessandra Ilari (9 June 2009), Jil Sander Taps New CEO Women's Wear Daily.
  53. ^ a b Luisa Zargani (23 June 2015), Jil Sander Said Naming New CEO Women's Wear Daily.
  54. ^ Silvia Ognibene (19 June 2010), Jil Sander says full recovery could be years out Reuters.
  55. ^ Alessandra Turra (8 October 2018), EXCLUSIVE: Jil Sander Taps Axel Keller as New CEO Women's Wear Daily.
  56. ^ Luisa Zargani (15 September 2021), Jil Sander Has a New CEO Women's Wear Daily.
  57. ^ Luisa Zargani (2 May 2023), Jil Sander Names Luca Lo Curzio Brand CEO Women's Wear Daily.
  58. ^ "Jil Sander Stores". Jilsander.com. Jil Sander. Retrieved August 30, 2022.
  59. ^ Sander’s New Take on Pure Women's Wear Daily, 13 June 2003.
  60. ^ Jennifer Weil (12 January 2023), Coty and Jil Sander Renew License Women's Wear Daily.
  61. ^ Jennifer Weil (8 February 2002), Sander To Launch Sun For Men Women's Wear Daily.
  62. ^ a b Alev Aktar (9 May 1997), Sander’s global hope: Jil Women's Wear Daily.
  63. ^ Mary Tannen (30 November 1997), Appearances: Hitting It on the Nose The New York Times Magazine.
  64. ^ a b c Brid Costello (28 January 2005), Jil Sander Launches a Couple of Good Sports Women's Wear Daily.
  65. ^ Ellen Groves (August 4, 2006), Jil Sander’s New Style Women's Wear Daily.
  66. ^ Luisa Zargani (28 August 2008), Jil Sander Signs Innerwear License Women's Wear Daily.
  67. ^ Miles Socha (4 February 1998), Alain Mikli sets sights on apparel Women's Wear Daily.
  68. ^ Alessandra Ilari (September 2, 2008), Jil Sander Sold to Onward Holdings for $244 Million Women's Wear Daily.
  69. ^ Sophia Chabbott (22 June 2009), Jil Sander Inks Jewelry Deal With Damiani Women's Wear Daily.
  70. ^ Tracey Lomrantz Lester (13 April 2010), Jil Sander Comes Within (Closer) Reach With A New Diffusion Line Glamour.
  71. ^ Booth Moore (12 April 2010), Jil Sander -- the brand, not the designer -- launches diffusion line Los Angeles Times.
  72. ^ a b Jil Sander to Return as Raf Simons Exits Women's Wear Daily, 23 February 2012.
  73. ^ Luisa Zargani (21 September 2013), Front Row at Jil Sander Women's Wear Daily.
  74. ^ Neil Lopez (6 October 2011), [1] Hypebeast.
  75. ^ Damon Syson (3 November 2022), The new Jil Sander mobile phone Wallpaper.
  76. ^ Laura Hawkins (27 October 2022), Jil Sander reworks the Birkenstock sandal Wallpaper.
  77. ^ Jessica Testa (7 November 2021), Jil Sander Ski Wear, Coming to a City Block Near You New York Times.
  78. ^ Ingeborg Harms (25 October 2015), Jil Sander: Sie hat mit dicker Schrift die Mode verändert Die Welt.
  79. ^ Alexander Fury (5 August 2020), Nick Knight, the visionary architect of digital fashion shows Financial Times.
  80. ^ Melissa Drier (30 October 2017), The Originals: Jil Sander Women's Wear Daily.
  81. ^ Amy M. Spindler (7 May 1996), The 90's Version of the Decadent Look New York Times.
  82. ^ Laura Bradley (24 October 2013), Jil Sander's Swan Song Another Magazine.
  83. ^ Beauty Beat: Twice as Nice: Lancaster Grows Jil Sander Pure Line Women's Wear Daily, 13 July 2004.
  84. ^ Melissa Drier (30 October 2017), The Originals: Jil Sander Women's Wear Daily.
  85. ^ Sander’s New Take on Pure Women's Wear Daily, 13 June 2003.
  86. ^ Alessandra Turra (12 July 2018), Jil Sander Taps Wim and Donata Wenders for Fall 2018 Ads Women's Wear Daily.
  87. ^ Dominique Sisley (20 July 2021), Joel Meyerowitz Has Shot Jil Sander’s Autumn/Winter 2021 Campaign Another Magazine.
  88. ^ "High Street Winner". British Vogue. 28 March 2011. Retrieved 2021-02-18.
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